It’s Time for a Waistcoat

The History of the Vest

From the red carpet to black-tie weddings to high school proms, men are once again donning the 3-piece suit for a classic and trim look. Jacket, check, trousers, check, and never underestimate it - the vest. Sometimes called a waistcoat, sometimes called a gilet.

The history of the vest dates back centuries to India and Persia, although it was King Charles II who decreed that the waistcoat had to be part of a proper Englishman’s dress. Back then the waistcoats were more ornate, made from silks and velvet with lace and other such finery.  

The vest waned as a status symbol in the early 20th century when it became more of a functional piece - an extra layer of warmth, or a slimming piece under a blazer. Then, a 90210 cast member regrettably ruined it for us all.

Until now.

Today, gents are once again sporting the vest.

 Single-breasted, 5 and 6 button vests with points are the most common type of vest, elongating the torso for a clean and trim look.

The number of buttons on a vest, however, can vary widely, with as few as two or as many as eight. This, gentlemen, means options.

Along with the choice of how many buttons you’d like to sport, there are also different styles to choose from: Do you want a deeper V or a horseshoe neckline? Do you want to go single-breasted or double-breasted? The options are limitless when you go custom, but for the sake of a handy gentlemen’s guide, we’ll break down 8 different types of vests that cover the need-to-knows.

8 Types of Vests to Know

5-button with points

A popular choice with 5 buttons, plus points, the inverted triangles at the bottom front of the garment that have a flattering effect on the torso. A classic and a charmer that’s commonly paired with a business suit, but can pair nicely with slacks or jeans as well.

6-button with points

Another popular choice, but with 6 buttons for the slightly more elongated torso. A great option for taller men as the extra button can add length to the body of the garment.

5-button points & lapel

This vest boasts the addition of a peak or notch lapel - a stylish and versatile accent. The lapel is normally the same material as the rest of the waistcoat, although it can be made from a contrasting material such as velvet or satin for a black tie event. Today you’ll see this style vest ranging from casual to black tie - a solid piece to explore your personal style with. 

4-button horseshoe with points:

A sleek style with 4 buttons and a horseshoe neckline for a truly classic appeal. The horseshoe shape features a clean, curved line, making this vest the ultimate partner for a tuxedo or a dinner jacket. The horseshoe neckline is the most formal neckline among vests.

5-button straight bottom

A classic 5-button look with a straight cut at the bottom front of the garment. The straight bottom is great for men with a fuller lower body because it balances the body’s proportions by drawing attention upwards. A streamlined style with clean lines and a minimalist look that pulls together your 3-piece suit.

 4-button horseshoe, straight bottom

A brother to the 4-button horseshoe with points, but with a straight bottom. Another great option for formal settings.

6 x 3 shawl lapel, straight bottom

A double breasted option, defined by its symmetrical columns of buttons. This vest has 6 buttons arranged in 3 rows of 2, plus a shawl lapel with a curved edge. A superior choice for evening wear and high-end occasions, pairing best with a dinner jacket or a tuxedo.

8 x 4 peak lapel with a straight bottom

A distinctive and dapper choice that has 8 buttons arranged in 4 rows of 2, plus a peak lapel that features edges pointing up towards the shoulders. The peak lapel forms a peak, unlike the shawl lapel that has a continuous round edge. Another great option for formal occasions, and another piece you may surprisingly see designed more casually in recent and coming seasons.

The Takeaway

It doesn’t matter if your vest is a minimalist piece that pulls together a clean and classic look, or a distinctive accent for your next black-tie worthy event. Either way, vests are back.

Still unsure about the best style and fit for you? Visit us in-store and let our expert clothiers take it from there.